In Conversation with Nicolas Mattassoglio - Production Director of Zegna Baruffa Lane Borgosesia spa
Émigré always places quality and comfort at the forefront of every decision, starting with Merino wool.
Selected in its ultrafine form, Merino brings together qualities that rarely coexist so naturally. It is soft, yet resilient. Lightweight, yet insulating. It responds to changing conditions, seamlessly shifting from travel to meetings, no matter the environment. It breathes, regulates, and adapts, creating a consistent sense of comfort rather than something that needs to be managed.
Over time, these qualities become less noticeable, which is precisely the point. The fabric resists odour, holds its shape, and maintains a clean, composed appearance with minimal intervention. Worn, packed, and worn again without losing integrity.
Why Zegna Baruffa Lane Borgosesia spa
Material, however, is only as good as the way it is made. This is where Zegna Baruffa Lane Borgosesia enters the Émigré process.
With a long-standing heritage in Italian wool spinning, Zegna Baruffa Lane Borgosesia is recognised for its expertise in developing high-performance natural yarns. Their vertically integrated production in Italy ensures consistency, traceability, and a level of control that remains rare within the industry.
The Re-Active yarn selected by Émigré is built on 17.5-micron ultrafine Merino wool, sourced through a rigorous selection process where each batch is tested for fibre length, micron consistency, colour, and purity before acceptance. As described during development, “every lot is checked… if the results are not matching we will send back the entire lot.” This level of scrutiny underpins the consistency of the final garment.
A defining element is the H2DRY Performance treatment, developed over more than a decade to extend wool into technical performance use. While Merino is naturally hygroscopic, the treatment enhances its ability to manage moisture, improving perspiration and regulating humidity and temperature. In practical terms, this means a garment that remains drier, more breathable, and more comfortable across extended wear.
The yarn is also engineered for durability and ease of care, with Woolmark-certified performance ensuring resistance to shrinkage and stability even after repeated washing. As noted in development, this creates “a real elegant comfort at 360°” - a balance of refinement and function.
The fine nm 2/60 construction contributes to the lightness of the garment, comparable in weight to a t-shirt, while maintaining the structure and drape expected of knitwear. Nothing feels overstated, yet everything performs as it should.
Following a visit by Thanh Hung Trinh from Émigré to the Baruffa facilities, this approach to material development is not only specified, but observed, grounded in a balance of technical precision and textile heritage.
For Émigré, Zegna Baruffa Lane Borgosesia spa represents a continuity of thinking where material innovation is defined by quiet, purposeful improvement.